MAY 19-21: SOLOMONS ISLAND, MARYLAND

May 19:  The wind was predicted to pick up to over 15 knots today which is not usually too bad but a 15 knot wind on the Chesapeake can create a very uncomfortable ride.  So by 6:45 a.m. we were under way heading to the Western shore and the Solomons.  With a flood tide in our favor, we made excellent time and were tied up at Zahniser's Yachting Center by early afternoon.

May 20:  We made arrangements to be hauled here to have the propeller and shaft checked out for any damage that we might have sustained by hitting an unknown object in the Dismal Swamp.  The Duddon was hauled early in the morning and after an inspection and testing of both the propeller and shaft, it was concluded that we had not sustained any damage to either.  What then was the cause of the vibration?  The consensus was that one of our zincs was loose and that was the culprit.  The solution was to remove the zinc, put the boat back in the water and taken her for a test run to see if there was still any vibration.  The crew duly took the boat out to open water and found no vibration at 2,200 RPMS.  Yay!

The rest of the day was spent doing those exciting boat chores:  laundry, provisioning, cooking, cleaning, etc.

May 21:  Today is our day off to play tourist and take a break from boat work.  So we walked a few blocks to the Calvert Marine Museum.

 The museum includes examples of Chesapeake-built wooden boats-These Bugeye boats plied the Chesapeake in search of crabs. There is even a work area where one can build one's own wooden canoe. 

 The museum contains exhibits, displays and aquariums highlighting maritime history, estuarine biology and paleontology.  This terrapin was quite eager to escape its confines.

 These river otters were taking a nap to escape the heat of the day.  You have to look carefully to see them as the glass enclosure was reflecting my image but very cute.

Drum Point Lighthouse.  This 1883 screwpile lighthouse was decommissioned and moved from its location on Drum Point to the museum grounds in 1975.

MAY 17-18: TANGIER ISLAND

May 17:  The only way to get to Tangier Island is via boat.  Most recreational boaters approach the island from the West which is somewhat trickier than from the East.  The channel is fairly long but is well marked.  We were guided in by Mr. Milton Park the owner of Park's Marina.  Docking was a bit tricky thanks to a rather strong current but Mr. Park kept telling us that we were doing well and that we would have no problems.  He is 82 years old and quite a character.  His family has lived on the island for many generations.

Historically the economy of the island has been based on the crab fishing industry.  Although now tourism plays a part in the economy, the local crabbers known as Waterman are a proud breed and there is still a strong tradition of crabbing on the island.  

 The approach to the island is lined on either side with crab shacks on stilts.

 Some are abandoned and just left to fall apart.

May 18:  Time to explore the island.  The locals all know one another and there is a preponderance of Crocketts, Pruits and Parks on the island.  Almost sounds like the Hobbit families in the Shire.

 These graves were located in front yard of this house which is not an uncommon sight on the island.  The reason given was that it makes it easier for the family to take care of the graves and to remind them of their loved ones.

 A typical house on the island.  This one was well maintained.  

An interesting version of the trash can!

 We had dinner at the Chesapeake House which is served family style.

 The Chesapeake House.

A local sign that we could relate to as well.

MAY 16-17: ONANCOCK

May 16:  We continued up the Eastern shore of the Chesapeake today to Onancock which is located on a river about 5 miles off the bay.

 The seascape is back to sandy beaches and clear water, quite a change from the low country in Georgia and South Carolina.

 Lots of Ospreys nesting on the channel markers.

 The Admiral modeling the latest in Christian Dior marine wear.

The town docks in Onancock were undergoing a major renovation so the facilities were non existent.  However, on the good news front, our neighbor in the marina offered us the use of his truck to go to the food store to stock up on needed items. 

May 17:  As our next stop is Tangier Island, a relatively short hop from here, we decided to spend the morning exploring the town and leave after lunch.

 Quaint small town with a number of antique stores, art galleries and restaurants.  We bought some delicious fresh strawberries and had a long chat with a local artist who specializes in painting dogs.

MAY 14-15: CAPE CHARLES

May 14:  Our usual early morning start saw us off down the river heading for the Eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay.

 Beautiful sunrise as we prepared to leave.

On our route out of Portsmouth, we saw many more US Naval vessels docked along the piers in Naval Station Norfolk.

 Much better view of the US Navy from the water.  Even though the security patrol boats keep pleasure craft at a safe distance.  One of the War Ships announced that it was preparing to leave the pier as we passed by but we did not get to see it depart as it does take a little longer for these big floating tanks to get underway.

 Naval Hospital Ship

 Carnival Cruise ship heading into Norfolk, empty and probably heading in for repairs.

Lots of commercial traffic too with the ever present hard working tug boats everywhere.

 The crossing to Cape Charles was a little bumpy but we made it to the town marina in good time. The marina is brand new and a welcome change to some that we have visited.

May 15:  We strolled around the small town but many places were closed as it is still quite early in the season, particularly for week days.  Unfortunately, the brown dog was on the closed list but we did manage to buy some of their homemade ice cream at one of the open deli shops.  Very good ice cream too.

MAY 12-13: PORTSMOUTH, VIRGINIA

May 12:  Arriving in the metropolis of Norfolk and Portsmouth after being in the Dismal Swamp and other small towns for so long is quite a shock to the system.  We managed to survive somehow...and  spent a delightful evening at the Commodore Theatre in Portsmouth.  It is an art deco theatre that serves dinner at individual tables while one watches a movie.  It was a fun experience-like being in a night club.

May 13:  We decided to try the local transportation to visit Norfolk which is across the river from Portsmouth.  So we purchased all day tickets that can be used on the ferry, light rail and bus systems.

The first leg of the trip was on this paddle wheel ferry to cross over to Norfolk.

Mermaid art decorates both Portsmouth and Norfolk.

Our goal today was to visit Naval Station Norfolk.  Once we crossed the river, we then took the light rail for a tour of Norfolk then we navigated the bus system to the Naval base.  Naval Station Norfolk is the largest Naval facility in the world.  It covers over 4,400 acres.  The base provides a tour for visitors so we hopped aboard the bus.  

No one need worry about homeland security.  The Captain has got it covered.  He has the cannon but where are the balls?

MAY 12: LEAVING NORTH CAROLINA & INTO VIRGINA

May 12:  Onto Portsmouth-Norfolk, Virgina:  By consensus at the social hour last night, all the boaters agreed to leave at 8:00 a.m. to allow the convoy to arrive at the second and final bridge and lock of the Dismal Swamp.  We lead the group at slow no wake speed.  The only excitement of the day was when we felt a loud bump and immediately dialed back to idle speed.  We did not see any logs or large objects and could only hope that something had hit the boat's hull and not the propeller!  Given that we can only travel at very low speed, we will not know if we have incurred any damage until we can increase our speed.

View of the Dismal Swamp from our the bridge of our boat. The Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge is the largest intact remnant of a vast habitat that once covered more than one million acres of southeastern Virginia and northeastern North Carolina. Formal protection of this resource began in 1973, when the Union Camp Corporation (a local forest products company) donated 49,097acres to The Nature Conservancy. The Nature Conservancy conveyed the donated land to the federal government, which, combined with additionally purchased land, was used to establish the Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge in 1974.

 Entering the State of Virginia

This was is definitely not on the retirement list!

MAY 11: ACROSS ALBERMALE SOUND TO THE DISMAL SWAMP

The Captain felt good enough to leave this morning (a few pain killers helped).  The wind is predicted to pick  up today to over 20 knots later in the day.  Albermarle Sound is 50 miles long but only 20 feet deep.  A combination that can produce notoriously bad waves.  Locals advise boaters not to cross the Sound if the wind is above 15 knots.  This mandated an early morning departure of 6:30 a.m. as the wind is usually less at that time of day.

We crossed the Sound without too much discomfort.  Unfortunately, we had to by pass Elizabeth City which is a favorite stop for Loopers to press on to the Dismal Swamp.

By passing Elizabeth City-oh well, next time we hope.

One bridge and one lock today en route to the Welcome Center at the Dismal Swamp 

 There were three other boats waiting to lock through and we ended up with a convoy going through the first section of the Dismal Swamp.  Slow speed is required throughout the Dismal Swamp which has a "no wake" restriction.

 We finally made it to the Welcome Center which provides free dockage at a 150 ft dock.  Only 4-5 boats can dock here so rafting is required for additional boats. Boaters are generally a friendly lot so tying  up to another boat and climbing over a stranger's boat is not a problem.

Boaters are also always available for impromptu social gatherings as long as they involve wine, beer and good conversations.

MAY 10: LEFT BELHAVEN BUT ARRIVED AT THE EMERGENCY ROOM!

The final touches were completed to our shower and boat repairs so were able to leave today around 10:00 a.m.  The weather looks great so we plan to make a long haul today to make up some time after our long sojourn in Belhaven.

We had an uneventful trip down the Aligator River-did not see any alligators-to our destination at the Aligator River Marina.  It was uneventful, until the Captain forgot that he had the engine room hatch was open and fell down into the engine room.  Initially, he thought that he was okay but concluded that he must have cracked a rib or two.  The Admiral immediately contacted the marina office.  Wanda the marina owner offered to drive him to the nearest emergency room.  Four hours later, the doctor concluded that he had probably cracked one or two floating ribs.  There is nothing to be done in this situation.  Only time will heal the ribs and any pain or discomfort must just be endured. A small breathing apparatus was provided and the patient was urged to do a lot of deep breathing to avoid contracting pneumonia!

Wanda was fantastic and waited for Peter for over four hours.  This is not the first time that we have been the lucky recipients of the kindness of strangers.

MAY 7-9: STILL IN BELHAVEN, NC

Well, we are still in Belhaven.  The new shower installation and other boat repairs have been hampered by the rainy weather and have taken longer than expected.  We are hoping to leave tomorrow if the weather cooperates!

APRIL 27-MAY 6: BELHAVEN

April 27:  We decided to have an extended stay in Belhaven for two reasons.  Firstly, the marina came highly recommended from other Monk owners as a repair facility and Peter has a list of projects that he wants to have done here.  Secondly, I have to fly home for my six month medical check ups.  So we elected for me to leave from here while the boat work is being completed.  Therefore, I flew back to Providence today and will return on May 2.

May 2:  After an all day air travel extravaganza (flying is so much fun these days) I arrived back in Belhaven.  The Good News is that so far all my tests have been negative so things on the health front are looking up.  The not so good news is that the boat projects will take much longer than expected so we will be here for longer than we thought.

Belhaven is a small waterfront town with a population of about 1,400 souls.  At one point in time, it was the crab capital of the United States.  Sadly, crabbing is not the mainstay of the economy as this industry is now dominated by Thailand.

Except for one excursion to New Bern, featured below, our days are filled with boat related chores and projects (for Peter) so I will not bore you'all with the details and will put the blog on hiatus until we resume the Loop.

New Bern was settled in 1710 by Swiss Immigrants who named the town after Bern Switzerland.  The bear statue below shows the US flag as well as the coat of arms of the city of Bern.  Legend says that the founder of Bern Switzerland vowed to name the city after the first animal he met on the hunt which was a bear.  So the bear also became the motif used in the city's coat of arms.

New Bern adopted the Bear as its mascot and colorful bear statues are dotted all over the town.  I captured only a few.

 The town also has numerous boutiques, antique stores and restaurants.  Quite a chic place!

History abounds as well.  New Bern was the first Capitol of North Carolina and is home to Tyron Palace which includes the Governor's Palace, several historic homes as well as traditional gardens.

The Governor's Palace which was built between 1767 and 1770 for the Royal Governor William Tyron who represented the British Crown.  The building has a fascinating history.  It was destroyed by fire in 1798 but restored to its former glory a 150 years later by local activists.  For more history:  www.tyronpalace.org

Traditional gardens