OCTOBER 14 - 21: UP THE TENNESSEE RIVER

October 14:  We left Green Turtle Bay on a beautiful, sunny day and crossed over to Kentucky Lake on the Tennessee River via the Barkley Canal.  For the next 40 miles, we will be traveling in an area known as the Land Between the Lakes (LBL).  LBL was created as a recreational and environmental education park.  It is protected from development and is home to wildlife such as bald eagles, deer and wild turkey.  Our destination today is Paris Landing State Park.  The Park features a lodge plus an 18 hole golf course...didn't bring the clubs though!

Just another day on the River!

October 15:  Up the Tennessee:  The Tennessee River is such a treat after some of the more commercial rivers that we have been on.  We have passed several of Tennessee's National Wildlife Refuges.   Thousands of migrating birds stop here.  It is particularly beautiful right now as the trees are starting to show their Fall colors.

The River does flood and the houses lining the banks exhibited appropriate preventive measures.

We anchored early near an island off the main channel in about 18 feet of water.  Happy as clams, we proceeded to relax.  About an hour later, we awoke to the fact that we were dragging our anchor and we were now drifting into the middle of the channel.  Action stations:  we started the engine and up came the anchor.  The Admiral vetoed trying to set the anchor again in the same location.  So off we went to the next closest option which was Mermaid Marina.  The depth at the entrance to the marina at normal pool is about 10 feet.  The river, however, is down 5 feet.  Fortunately for us, another Looper, Fuddy Duddy, with a shallower draft than us went in first and called out the depth to us as we followed in.  Boaters really do help other boaters.  We were soon safely tied up for the night.  The Admiral needed a stiff one after that experience.

October 16:  We headed out after a peaceful nights rest to our next destination:  another anchorage further up the river.   Swallow Island proved to be a much better anchorage with less current, and good wind protection.  Even the Admiral slept well that night.

October 17-19:  Pickwick Lake:  To enter Pickwick Lake we had to first lock through Pickwick Landing Lock and Dam.  The good news was that we did not have a long wait to enter the Lock.  The bad news was that the 55 foot lift in the Lock creates tremendous turbulence and we had a really tough time holding onto our line and fending off the bow of the boat from the Lock wall.  Finally the torture was over and we exited into beautiful Pickwick Lake.

Some spectacular homes along the lake.

Homes nestled in the trees and rocks.

October 18:  Shiloh:  Our home for the next three nights is Grand Harbor Marina.  Grand Harbor Marina is a convenient location from which to visit Shiloh.  We availed ourselves of the marina's courtesy car and drove the 10 miles to the Shiloh National Military Park. The Park is enormous covering 4,000 acres.  The battle on April 6-7, 1862  raged around Shiloh Church and Pittsburg Landing.  The battle was the largest engagement in the Mississippi Valley campaign during the Civil War. Eighty thousand combatants were engaged in the field.  More than 23,000 casualties were sustained.  

On the first day of battle, despite a fierce defense the Union Army under General Grant was pushed back.  The Confederate success was short lived, as Grant received reinforcements and repelled the Confederate Army on the next day (short history-volumes have been written about this battle and its participants).

Union Army grave markers.

The Confederate dead were placed in mass graves.  These are two of several monuments were erected at a later date to honor those Confederate soldiers who died that day.

The National Park Service has done an excellent job in preserving the battlefield artifacts and recording the the battle.  There are 151 monuments, 217 cannon and more than 450 historic tablets that detail the course of the battle.

October 19:  Cold and rainy weather kept us in Grand Harbor for another day.  Time to cook up a storm and make dinners for several nights.

October 20:  An improved weather report helped us make the decision to move on today to Florence, Alabama.

Fellow River Traveller.

 An incentive to stay in the Channel.

October 21:  Leaving Florence:  We woke early in the morning to find ourselves in the middle of a Bass Fishing Tournament surrounded by a 100 boats.

As soon as the early morning fog cleared, the 100 boats declared it safe to venture out in pursuit of the biggest Bass.

We left Florence in the company of 8 other Looper boats.  Our marina was only 2 miles from the Wilson Lock. So we decided to increase our odds of locking through without a long delay by banding together and making it easier on the Lock Master.  The Lock Master asked us to stay together to go through the next Lock as well.

OCTOBER 10 TO 13: BACK DOWN THE CUMBERLAND RIVER

The blog took a back seat for a while but here is a quick catch up: 


October 10:  It was with heavy hearts that we left Nashville very early in the morning.  We were leaving under very different circumstances than when we arrived.  Both of us miss our Buddy a lot and we will still grieve for some time.

With the current now in our favor and our early start, we made good time down the river.  We were also lucky enough to arrive at the one and only Lock just as a Tow was leaving so we locked straight through with no delay.  The two other boats that left yesterday had a three hour wait at this same Lock.  We reached our anchorage just before dusk and spent a quiet night after a long day.

October 11:  Thick mist greeted us this morning so we had to delay our departure.   Finally, we weighed anchor and completed the final leg back to Green Turtle Bay Marina.

October 12-13:  Boat chores, laundry and food shopping was on the agenda for our two full days in Green Turtle Bay.

OCTOBER 9: A SAD, SAD DAY: TODAY WE LOST OUR BUDDY

Today, our beloved Gerbeaud died.  For the last few days, he had not been eating his usual two meals a day.  We thought that he had tired of the same fare every day.   So we tried several different dog foods mixed in with chicken and other treats that he normally inhaled but to no avail.  He just rejected everything put in front of him. He was also listless and not his usual energetic self on walks.  We found an Emergency Animal Hospital and took him in for an evaluation.  We thought perhaps that he had a stomach bug and that the appropriate antibiotics would solve his eating problem.

The Veterinarian on duty examined him and ordered a comprehensive blood screen.  The results clearly indicated a problem with his kidneys.  Either he had a kidney infection or a more serious kidney disease.  A urine test would confirm which of the two possible diagnoses was correct.  Unfortunately, the test eliminated the possibility of a kidney infection.  The Vet explained to us that there is no cure and that his condition was terminal.  We could possibly keep him alive for another month or so with intravenous hydration.  He would need this hydration 2-3 times a week.  He was not in pain but the Vet explained that he was not comfortable and probably would continue to loose weight. 

We were faced with a heart wrenching decision:  do we keep him alive for our own sake or give him a peaceful end.  The thought of not having him as part of our lives was and is so painful but we concluded that it would be the best decision for him.  So we let him go.  He will be with us always.

A friend, Tom, sent us this poem.  I do not know who wrote it but it helped us with our grief.

If I Should Grow Frail

If it should be that I grow frail and weak
And pain does keep me from my sleep,

Then will you do what must be done
For this - the last battle - can't be won.

You will be sad I understand
But don't let grief then stay your hand.

For on this day, more than the rest
Your love and friendship must stand the test.

We have had so many happy years,
You wouldn't want me to suffer so.
When the time comes, please, let me go.

Take me to where my needs they'll tend,
Only, stay with me till the end.

And hold me firm and speak to me
Until my eyes no longer see.

I know in time you will agree
It is a kindness you do to me.

Although my tail its last has waved,
From pain and suffering I have been saved.

Don't grieve that it must now be you
Who has to decide this thing to do.

We've been so close - we two -these years
Don't let your heart hold any tears.

 Photos of our buddy

OCTOBER 3-8: UP THE CUMBERLAND RIVER TO NASHVILLE

October 3:  We headed up the Cumberland River on a glorious sunny day.  The first part of the trip took us across Barkley Lake which was smooth as glass.

Barkley Lake-the lake is 2 miles wide in places but very shallow.  It pays to stay in the Channel!

Millions of years ago, a gigantic meteorite (est. 20 miles in diameter) struck this area.  The impact was so great that rock was pushed up from 2,000 feet below to form these layers.

Homes perched on the rocky cliffs.

"The Castle on the Cumberland"-Kentucky's maximum security prison.  The main building was completed in 1888.  In front of the prison but now underwater is the site of the last significant battle of the Civil War east of the Mississippi River.  It was here in April 1865, that Union forces attacked forces from Northern Virginia.

October 4:  We anchored in the Hickman Creek Recreation Area.  The channel was well marked coming in but a little shallow at the entrance.  Once in, however, we had the place to ourselves and had a great overnight anchorage.

Early morning in Hickman Creek after taking His Majesty ashore for his constitutionals. 

Once the fog lifted, we left for a shorter run to the town dock at Clarksville.

Fort Donelson-A Confederate stronghold.  On the morning of February 14, 1862, a Union fleet attacked the Fort.  Although the Confederate defenders badly damaged the fleet, the Union forces encircled the Fort and forced the surrender of 13,000 troops.  The result was loss of control of the River for the South and a major victory for the North. 

October 5:  We met up with some fellow Loopers in Clarksville and we departed to lock through the Cheatham Lock together-the only Lock on the Cumberland before Nashville.

A short run after the Lock took us to the Harpeth River which is considered one of the most scenic rivers that flows into the Cumberland.  We anchored in about 7 feet of water and spent the night in a well protected anchorage.

October 6:  After an early morning start, we arrived in Nashville after a 100 mile run.  Long day but we are looking forward to a three day stopover in Nashville.  We are tied up to the city dock which does not provide any amenities except electricity but is conveniently located right downtown. 

Arriving in Nashville on a hot and humid day.  The building in the foreground is called the "Batman".

October 7-8:  Nashville:  We played tourist for the next two days.  We took in a show at the Grand Ole Opry, visited the Country Music Hall of Fame and cruised the local saloon scene to listen to yet undiscovered local musicians.

Music, music everywhere...

SEPTEMBER 24-OCTOBER 2: MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE CUMBERLAND RIVER

September 24:  The Mighty Mississippi: Alton to Hoppies:  We left Alton on a beautiful sunny morning and began our journey down the Mississippi.  The Mississippi runs over 1,700 miles from Minneapolis to New Orleans.  However, we will only travel on the upper portion of the Mississippi for 218 miles.  In normal times, the current runs between 3-4 knots and 6-8 knots in flood time.  We flew down the river doing 11-12 knots versus our usual 7-8 knot speed.  There are only two Locks that we will have to traverse.  The first one is close to Alton.   We called and received permission to Lock down with 5 other boats.

This section of the Mississippi is lined with high cliffs on the left descending bank.

An interesting house nestled on the high cliff.  Hope they had a good architect!

The Mississippi is primarily a thoroughfare for commercial vessels.

 

Our journey today takes us past St. Louis, MO which is a busy commercial port.  There are Tows moving in and out everywhere so one has to pay close attention.

The famous St. Louis Arch.  Unfortunately, there is nowhere to stop to explore the city.

St. Louis City Hall which is framed by the Arch.

Hoppies Marina in Kimmswick, MO, is one of the few places pleasure craft can stop on the Mississippi.  We covered the 50 plus miles in record time. The owner Fern is somewhat of an institution.  She has lived on the Mississippi all her life and gives Loopers a briefing which covers current conditions on the river every afternoon.

Some prime real estate in Kimmswick, MO.

September 25:  Down the Mississippi: We left Hoppies on an overcast, cool morning.  Unfortunately, the weather did not improve and we covered the 110 miles to our next stop in almost constant rain.

His Majesty trying to stay warm!

We arrived at our anchorage for the night, Little Diversion Channel, to find 5 other boats already there.  The anchoring conditions were not good due to the heavy rain that we had experienced all day.  The current going into the channel was so strong it felt like we were going through a washing machine.  Once in the channel, there was still significant current and a load of floating debris.  Several of the boats already there had dragged their anchors so we let out 75 feet of chain and anchored successfully.

September 26:  To the Ohio River

Early morning in Little Diversion Channel.  The mist did not lift for a few hours so we did not deem it safe to leave until it did.  Today we leave the Mississippi and head up the Ohio River.  The Ohio is 981 miles long and we will be going against the current.  Fortunately, we will only be travelling up the Ohio for 60 miles.  It was quite a change only being able to travel at just under 6 knots after the speed we enjoyed on the Mississippi.

We stopped for the night just before Lock 53 which is the first of two Locks that we will have to traverse on the Ohio.

September 27:  Still on the Ohio River:  The good news this morning was that the Ohio River is so high due to the recent heavy rains that the dam is lowered and we will therefore not have to lock through.  This saves us a lot of time as there is considerable commercial traffic on the river which would result in long wait times for us.  Even better news at Lock 52:  we can cruise right through as well as the dam is down as well.

Fellow traveller on the Ohio River. 

September 28:  Leaving the Ohio for the Cumberland River

Early morning at our last anchorage on the Ohio. 

Commercial traffic on the Ohio was much more than we expected.  It is quite challenging passing some of these Tows in narrow sections and knowing what exactly is around the next bend.  Fortunately, we installed an automated identification system (AIS) before we left.  This enables us to at least know what is coming at us.

Here is part one of a Tow that we had to pass.

Part 2.

And part 3!

Same Tow.  Check out the wake that it creates!  We were pleased to leave the Ohio behind and enter the Cumberland River.  The Cumberland River runs 690 miles through Tennessee.  We will only be travelling about 180 miles up to Nashville.  Our destination today is Green Turtle Bay Marina which is about 31 miles up the Cumberland River.  First though we have to traverse the Barkley Lock and Dam.   This Lock provides a 57 foot lift.

Unfortunately, we arrived there with a few other boats and had to wait for a Tow to lock through so we had an extended wait.

A fellow Looper in the Lock gives some perspective to the 57 foot lift.

September 28-October 1:  Green Turtle Bay Marina at Grand Rivers, KY:  After the rigors of the Mississippi and the Ohio Rivers, we really enjoyed being in a full service marina with hot showers and a restaurant.  There are quite a few fellow Loopers here as everyone is taking a few rest days.  Rest days, of course, include boat cleaning, laundry and food provisioning.  We went into Grand Rivers for dinner and took in an excellent show, Smoke on the Mountain which was an irreverent look at life in a Baptist Church communinty in the 1938.  All the actors were locals-very impressive performance.

Green Turtle Bay Marina

Lots and lots of turtles around.  They are really shy.  Only managed to catch this small one sunning itself on a rock.

Getting ready to cook up a big batch of Chicken Paprikas.